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10 thoughts on “Surf Is Where You Find It

  1. says:

    Gerry grew up in the islands, from whence he soaked up his easy does it style, Aloha spirit, and general approach to life, nature, and the wave Then, in return, thousands of surfers and friends soaked up that Aloha spirit from Gerry I mean, you ve really got to admire someone who made his living by playing in the waves better than anyone else Gerry is definitely plugged in a real Kahuna He did this by discovering the way of waves No two waves are the same, yet Gerry learned something universal from learning their nature We may consider going with the flow a tedious clich , but Lopez made a sweet philosophy, profession, and life of that fluid, sweet spot of awareness Nature, as Wordsworth professed, never betrays the heart of one who loves her Gerry has always loved the ocean, you can see it in his approach to the wave and also to people and nature has always supported him If you observe Gerry s effortless, slacked down style, not only while he s surfing, you will discover it s all about seeing things and being with things exactly as they are moment to moment without imposing any delusions or even any thoughts There s power and peace in that brand of anti intellectualism, because that s seeing and being with reality There is wisdom in waves Some surfers see it right away, others never do To find success in surfing, we must learn to be in harmony with nature This will bring a sense of peace By sharing this peace, and contributing to other people s happiness, we can find the true meaning of life Keep surfing Gerry Lopez I think I m getting wealthy in ways that don t count at the bank Gerry Lopez image error

  2. says:

    I love surfing Surfing is what I go to when life is super stressful and I just need to let off some steam The feeling of sliding down the face of a wave and pulling into the pocket is only a feeling a surfer can have and Gerry Lopez, being the pro at this, illustrates this feeling in his book Surf Is Where You Find It This book is a collection surf stories all about Gerry Lopez s surf adventures all around the world in different conditions From the Banzai Pipeline with crazy spitting barrels to the coast of Indonesia Even his experience on the slopes in Oregon and the Alps You mat wonder how is snowboarding anything like surfing They have absolutely nothing in common except for the same stoke you can get from both surfing and snowboarding which is his overall message in this book that no matter where you are you can get stoked from almost anything you have a passion for I thought that he used really good stylistic devises when he talked about his experiences in the ocean like when he says I felt a tingle go through me as we got near He also is really good at describing the moments that get you stoked like being in the barrel For example he says Everything seemed to slow down as wellThen it was over and I shot out into daylight at high speed If you are a surfer or do anything in the surf you know this feeling that you get when you get in a really good barrel I think that this book is really important to our society today because everybody needs to find the thing that gets you stoked and high on life because that makes you happy If everbody found something that they are passionate about and stick to it our society will be much happier and peaceful as a whole.

  3. says:

    I really loved this book This book tells the story of a legendary surfer named Gerry Lopez He grew up on the island of Oahu in Hawaii Lopez began surfing around the age of ten He originally had no real interest in surfing, but what sparked an interest was watching the locals get up every morning and paddle out Soon, he had a board and a spot in the lineup outside his house at Queen s Gerry Lopez soon was surfing big waves like Pipeline He was a pioneer in Rope Tow into big waves along with Laird Hamilton The rest of the book tells about his many adventures in Bali, Australia, and many other places The writing in the book was super powerful and inspiring, at least for me, being someone who loves the ocean and surfing I absolutely loved this book

  4. says:

    Awe inspiring, energetic adventures punctuated by some deeply moving and profound moments, gleaned from Lopez s lifelong passion for surfing the world s most beautiful waves, in pursuit of mastery, spiritual truths and just plain, awesome, goofy footed fun

  5. says:

    Gerry Lopez seems like a great guy For a non surfer, this book is very surf focused, but I loved it He tells his surf stories in great detail but with beauty and humbleness His descriptions of waves and his love for the sport is mesmerizing, as is his casual friendship with basically every surfers he encounters He doesn t talk a lot about his family or about himself But who he is is made clear throughout the book When he discusses surf realization, and that the inner self is a great place It s closer than people think and it is nearly perfect this is so obviously true for him His writing style is so genuine and in the moment At the same time, Lopez doesn t seem interested in giving any great lessons throughout the book However he does gives a few small gifts of wisdom at the end When speaking about riding a wave next to his brother and having completely different sets, he says Life is a series of moments I came through that set to find that all moments are simultaneous but still separate and unique.

  6. says:

    I grew up going to the beaches in Southern California I never learned to surf, but sure enjoyed watching and body surfing especially watching, and idolizing, my older cousin Chuck, who lived in Huntington Beach and surfed all the time My wife and I love visiting Hawaii especially in the winter since we live in a place with cold, snowy winters , and watching the surfers and kite surfers Running across this book by Gerry Lopez was a real treat His stories of a lifetime of surfing in Hawaii, California, and around the world, take me to the warm, and I appreciate it.

  7. says:

    Such a great book Growing up in Southern California and moving to the North West, you always need that ray of sunshine that brings you back to the careless beach days growing up Gerry s book is timeless, entertaining, an easy read, and historical I m buying this book for the shelves to pass down to the kids.

  8. says:

    A fun surf storyGerry seems to be having fun surfing than anybody else is doing their job He never seems to take the great ride he is on for granted and captures the stoke of a newby throughout his surfing career A real good read.

  9. says:

    I truly loved these stories Got me through finals week

  10. says:

    The surf god himself A good biography, great to read about his life and his thoughts If in doubt, paddle out